Sustainable CMF
Colour Flow 2023 update
October 2021
Welcome to the October 2021 Colour Flow 2023 update on sustainable materials, colours and finishes. Materials are the cornerstones of sustainable design and impact the environmental footprint of products. Research, science and design all come together in the search for new materials, colours and finishes.
There are still many options waiting to be discovered and new developments that are not yet scalable. Exploring sustainable approaches is a step-by-step process; it is a pathway towards zero impact with continuous improvement on all fronts. Learning about materials and the impact they have is part of the trajectory, from the reduction of materials that are bad for the environment to ultimately materials and colours with zero impact.
Forced into a new era, under the influence of the disruptions of 2020 and 2021, people have become more aware of the impact of what they buy on the environment. The recent IPCC report urges immediate action. As a result, there is a sense of urgency towards improved sustainable practices and generating significantly less waste and energy.
The path of circularity and timeless design is a revolutionary one. Focus on circularity will result in improved environmental resource management and material efficiency. Global resources such as metals, plastics and fossil fuels are finite and leave an ecological footprint. Renewable materials such as wood, cotton and renewable energy occur naturally and can be replaced.
You can download the PDF version of the report here
Durability As a Strategy
The environmental (and economic) benefits of durability are obvious. A sustainable product is a product that lasts a lifetime, and by doing that, there is less impact on the environment. Durable products and materials need to be replaced or repaired less often, and the impact of the raw materials and energy use can be spread over a more extended period of time. Doubling the life of a product is halving the environmental impact. For a durable product, the quality of the materials is essential, as is a timeless style. It is those products that are loved and therefore cared for that continue to exist. Beautifully designed products that resonate for a long time contribute to sustainability and are arguably the most critical sustainability strategy. Durability is about timeless materials that become more beautiful over time such as marble, denim, copper, wood and wool.
Left to right, Stool for Michelangelo 2 by Kueng Caputo, 100 year vest by Vollebak, Co Hareruya by Arbol Design
Materials in Their Raw State
Questioning how our current products are made and the materials they are made with might unveil new potential materials. Using materials in their raw state without adding finishes, coatings, washings, and colourations is sustainable. Mixing handcraft and technology is simultaneously primitive and high-tech and leads to a new aesthetic. Materials, made from organic waste and plant fibres with bio-based binding agents, to create products that can return to nature without any waste. Recycled cotton, organic linen and hemp are environmentally positive materials that are available in nature, low-cost, lightweight, renewable and biodegradable.
Left to right, Gray Natural Brush II by Hiroko Takeda, Raw Cowhide sneaker MIP-25 by Hender Scheme, Homegrown by After Architecture, Woven Bamboo installation by tanabe chikuunsai IV
Non Toxic Colour
More sustainable paint solutions are being developed aimed at reducing waste, abstaining from chemicals and saving water. Freshwater and waterless dyeing methods eliminate the washing process to prevent water pollution. The more these methods are used, the more water can be saved. Natural dyes from food waste, tea, plants, flowers, herbs and spices are starting to scale up, even in fluorescent colors. There is a shift away from bleaching, allowing the presence of optical whites. The popularity of natural dyes and undyed fabrics is creating new colour palettes with beautiful tones.
Left to right, EarthColors by Archroma, Naturally dyed yoga clothing from the Cornell Natural Dye Studio, H&M created colour using microbes found at the Fly Geyser in Nevada
Growing Materials
If we turn our attention to the natural world, there could come a time where we can imagine our future products being grown rather than made. Increasing numbers of companies are experimenting and searching for living, growing materials. If we continue to exploit natural resources, we will exhaust raw materials. We need to create new ones and today we have access to high-resolution tools. Mycelium is an example of such material; it is formed from the root network of mushrooms, and (combined with a mix of sawdust and sugarcane) it can provide structure and strength, even for buildings. Seaweed, hemp, milkweed, grass, straw, cork are all being used for growing new materials.
Left to right, Seamless Softy legging, made of plant-based fibers by Maison Lejaby, Folium light by Morgan Ruben, Cork Bicycle Saddle by Sofia Almqvist and Carl Cyrén-Gessato, GROW exhibition by the Fashion for Good Museum in Amsterdam, BMW i3 Interior made from wood and hemp
Plant Based Leather
Animal farming is one of the most significant contributors to climate change. Only in Europe, animal farming contributes between 12 and 17% of the EU’s total greenhouse gas emissions. Besides, animals are often fed commodities, like soy, which are linked to deforestation and habitat destruction. Reconsidering the place of animals in the world has led to rise of leather alternatives. These were often plastic-based, but new plant-based materials are being developed that have similar capacities to leather but are far more ecological and cruelty-free. Lab-grown substitutes are mushroom leather, cactus leather and pineapple leather.
Top to bottom, Cactus Leather by Desserto, Mylo utility trousers, by Stella McCartney, Beyond Leather
Compostable Materials
Bio-based, renewable materials can be taken apart and recycled or industrially composted at the end of their life. After use, the materials can be broken down into an industrial composter. Products need to be made from as few components as possible to remain biodegradable after use. Their nutrients are reintroduced into the ecological material cycle, a process with many beneficial benefits, including fertilisation and soil health improvement. Making use of 3D knitting or printing technology allows the product to be manufactured on demand, preventing overproduction while allowing users to customise the size, colours, patterns and materials. Due to the use of the colour of the natural material, the colours may vary.
Left, Ohmie, 3D printed compostable lamp by Krill Design
Made From Waste
We start to see waste materials in a new light and now consider the beauty of waste and how it can be reused. Waste can be an endless playground and limitless resource; there can even be a sense of luxury out of waste materials. Natural materials such as shells, grass, seeds, and stones can be turned into sustainable construction materials. Combined with a binding agent, these materials have great strength and the natural components create an unexpected visual versatility.
Left, The ‘Carrelé’ collection, wall tiles made by recycled eggshells by Nature Squared
Upcycling
We have enough clothing on the planet right now to clothe the next six generations of the human race. New is not always better; old can be used to make new. Waste fabrics can be upcycled into lively, collaged garments that are one of a kind. Also, offcuts and deadstock can be turned into new items. The slow and labour-intensive process of deconstructing and reconstructing garments and products for upcycling involves craftsmanship and originality. Buy less, buy better and be more outspoken; clothes and products can be a vehicle for change.
Left to right, Patchwork Boots by Acne Studios, Plastic rivers by ACdO and GAN Rugs, Tracksuit Jacket by Bethany Williams, Dispaly Cabinet made from waste by Anna Gudmundsdottir
Plastic Alternatives
Bioplastics have many more positive qualities than the plastic that accumulates in our oceans. Bioplastics break down more rapidly than synthetic plastic, and there is no increase in carbon dioxide during biodegradation. Thus, bioplastics can be used to reduce the problem of plastic waste that is polluting the planet and contaminating the environment.
Left to right, The Ocean Plastic Mouse by Microsoft, 3D printed 100% recycled PET surfboard by Wyve, Bioplastic vases and chargers by Crafting Plastics, chair in recycled plastic by Skandiform
Mono-materials
A future roadmap for European textile strategy was released earlier this year that ensures a tax on virgin plastic, and extends producer responsibility schemes (EPR) for textile management and cost of the end-of-life treatment of products that are put up for sale. The coming French AGEC law (anti-waste for a circular economy) will prohibit the destruction of new and unused textile materials by businesses starting in January 2022. The Circular Economy works best with mono-component materials which can be recycled completely. With only one single chemical composition, a product can be recycled successfully without being taken apart. At the end-of-life phase, it can be grounded and remade. The increased use of mono-filament materials will ease disposal procedures, and allow recyclability for a true circular economy.
Top to bottom, The Forever Tee by Presca, Adidas’ Terrex Futurecraft.Loop anorak, mono-material coat by Helly Hanson, 100 recyclable running shoe by Cyclon made from Rilsan material
Aluminium
Aluminium is one of the most environmentally friendly metals on the planet, it can be recycled infinitely to make exactly the same product. Aluminium is considered one of the most valuable items in the recycling bin and the most recyclable industrial material. Aluminium is durable due to its long lifespan, it can last for decades. Recycling 1 tonne of aluminium saves 9 tonnes of CO2 emissions and the process is quick. The required energy in combination with the long life span is what makes aluminium durable, especially when green energy such as solar power is used.
Left, Alu square by Muller Van Severen
Carbon Negative Materials
Carbon-negative materials remove more carbon than they emit into the atmosphere and by doing that they create an environmental benefit. Plant matter and biomaterials such as wood, cork, hemp and algae can capture atmospheric carbon via photosynthesis, these materials can be the base for materials that store carbon more permanently. Carbon-negative bioplastic can be used in cars, interiors and cladding. Mycelium can make buildings and products carbon-negative and also wood can remove CO2 from the atmosphere. Olivine is one of the most common minerals on earth and is capable of absorbing its own mass in CO2 when crushed and scattered on the ground.
Top to bottom, Algae shirt by Vollebak, Pangaia x Twelve carbon-capturing sunglasses, AirCarbon by Newlight Technologies
Biobased Carbon Fibres
Carbon fibre is very strong and light compared to metal. Scientists are working on carbon fibres made from biomaterials instead of fossil fuels in an attempt to create a version that does not generate carbon emissions. Bio-based carbon fibres can be used to build lightweight electric cars with greater battery range. In architecture, concrete could be reinforced with carbon fibres instead of steel, allowing ultra-thin structures to be built. Bio-based carbon fibres can be also more affordable than petroleum-based options. The high cost of carbon fibre is partly due to the complex and energy-intensive production process. Renewable carbon fibres are made from cellulose and lignin and wood.
Left to right, biobased carbon under development at the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research, Car with a roof and battery made from wood-based carbon fibre by KTH Royal Institute of Technology, Entry Portals at Dubai Expo 2020 by Asif Khan
Active Surfaces
Surfaces and coatings can help to battle climate change. Smart Surfaces can help mitigate heat, harvest energy, provide power, and be adaptive to the surroundings and responsive to light and warmth. Reflective, white paint can reflect the light on roofs, and pavements can lower temperatures. Darker colours can absorb light and radiate heat. Green roofs have longer lifespans than traditional roofs and decrease energy usage and stormwater runoff costs. a valuable tool in the fight against global warming by helping efficiently cool down buildings.
Top to bottom, Energy harvesting backpack by Pauline van Dongen, UltraWhite Paint by researchers at Purdue University’s School of Mechanical Engineering, Retro-reflective bike by Mission Bicycles, The Active Textile project by MIT Self-Assembly Lab, Designtex, and Steelcase, Biofuel cells that can harvest energy from sweat by the Center for Wearable Sensors, UC San Diego
You can download the PDF version of the report here
If you would like more information on one or more topics, or see the materials mentioned, please contact Oltmans van Niekerk at info@oltmansvanniekerk.nl