Material Innovations
Update November 2022
Material Innovations
Welcome to the Material Innovations Report which provides an overview of new developments in materials. We will showcase different ideas and concepts being explored in the industry.
The looming climate crisis has accelerated the need to reinvent materials and the manufacturing process of materials. Thinking locally and building in more customization will become necessary for both CO2 reduction and the use of sustainable energy, such as solar energy. New sources to create materials include innovations in using waste and circular and regenerative materials. Carbon capture technology is evolving and leading to materials that counteract environmental damage. There is a demand for protective and resilient materials that enhance performance or safeguard us from the cold, heat, rain or sun. Technology is used to optimize time and material efficiency throughout the supply chain. Transparency and accountability of the whole chain is important to create a trusted measurable outcome. Material innovations come from biotechnology, combining future technologies with craft thinking and radical engineering to create a material that has a minimal impact and great performance. The future of materials is important to monitor, it is the future of design. Materials lead design innovation, as form follows CO2.
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1/Waste material
Working across industries in the supply chain
Using new raw material sources, such as food waste, can reduce CO2. Materials derived from food waste can be converted into textiles as well as hard plastics and cementitious materials for interior and architectural applications. The current challenge is to establish cross-industry collaborations to achieve scalability.
The search for leather alternatives increases due to the change to vegan materials. These materials' performance, hand feel and appearance are similar to animal leather.
Ideal feedstock should be used which have no end-use or secondary usage like animal feed. Agricultural waste can be turned into sustainable textile fibres. Projects that map the local waste streams connect these sources to circular business opportunities. Garment-to-garment recycling transforms post-consumer garments into new ones. It demonstrates an integral and closed-loop garment recycling process where the material keeps it quality and value.
Waste no more
2/Regeneration
Designing for a positive impact
The bio-economy is an increasingly important part of our world today, touching everything from food and plastics to clothing and energy. Doing less harm is no longer enough; we must actively contribute to the prosperity of our planet. A regenerative approach is a proper, sustainable strategy.
In nature, nothing goes to waste. Earth has already designed the perfect, waste-free system: nutrients are recycled continuously, and nothing is discarded. Everything in our natural world is made from the same common building blocks: sugars, proteins, fats, and minerals. These basic nutrients are reconfigured in countless ways to create all of the diversity and abundance that surrounds us. New material innovations embrace ecological systems in fungi or plants, which automatically renew and repair themselves.
Fungi can feed us, and heal us plus they have superior material and environmental benefits due to their regenerative properties. They are carbon neutral and if exposed to living organisms, they can be decomposed. 3D-printed mycelium is lightweight, robust, and has a surface similar to velvet. It can be used to make building materials fire-resistant, stronger, and lighter. In the fashion industry, it can serve as an alternative to leather. There is an increasing awareness that these materials and their potential applications allow us to design with nature rather than against it. The future can be grown.
Mycelium
3/Rethinking plastic
Using CO2 as a resource
Innovation in recycling is needed to tackle plastic pollution. New PET-like plastics made from biomass have the potential to revolutionize plastic production. The raw materials come from wood waste or other non-edible plant materials. These materials share similarities with fossil fuel plastics, such as durability, light-weight and heat resistance, making them suitable for packaging, textile fibres and filaments for 3D printing.
Recycling CO2 into valuable chemicals, fuels, and materials has emerged as an opportunity to reduce the emissions of these products. In this way, CO2 recycling is a potential cornerstone of a circular carbon economy that can support a net-zero future.
Carbon capture technology that converts waste CO2 into plastic is essential in transitioning to more sustainable alternatives. The industry is investigating how waste CO2 can be converted into insulation foam and synthetic fibres. The materials can even exceed plastic, some CO2-based materials have enhanced performance, such as flame retardant capacity or scratch resistance. The ultimate goal is to produce 100 per cent CO2-based plastic in the coming years.
Bioplastics
4/Circular
Establishing a global framework
The European Union legislation dictates sustainable change for fashion and packaging with extended producer responsibility. Companies will be required to pay the costs of end-of-life management. Data collection and transparent information about every product via digital passports will be necessary.
Companies must create structures based on closed-loop systems with regenerative fibre technology. Recycling without compromising on quality is vital for consumers. Therefore, investing in digital sorting capacity and using high-quality textiles made from recyclable fibres will facilitate the transition to the future European circular fashion landscape.
A multi-sectorial and macro-meso level framework is needed to create global circularity. Many countries embrace the circularity goals but there are big differences globally. It will be a challenge to keep up to date of local legislation of the regions and countries that are setting new standards.
5/Zero carbon
Working towards honest goals
Lowering carbon emissions has been an objective for many industries. Only 4.5% of countries ( a.o. Bhutan, Suriname) have achieved carbon neutrality, and most countries are planning to do so by 2050. Targeting 2060 is the world’s largest emitter, China. To attain the targets stipulated by the Paris agreement it is necessary to not only reduce CO2 emissions but also to remove CO2 from the atmosphere to achieve net-zero carbon or negative carbon emissions through various social, economic, environmental and technological measures.
Circular materials with an endless lifespan form the basis for a CO2-neutral future. Carbon-negative textiles sequester carbon rather than releasing it. Fashion tech start-ups such as Rubi Laboratories and Fairbrics are changing the way we approach carbon-waste management in the textile industry.
Offsetting or reforestation are commonly used in carbon neutrality. Ganni, a Danish fashion brand, is working towards carbon insetting. They are implementing carbon-reducing technology directly within their supply chain. The incorporation of these technologies will lead to a 50 per cent reduction in carbon emissions, according to founder Nicolaj Reffstrup. Insetting is a future-proof way towards carbon zero.
6/ Non-woven
Reducing impact
The use of nonwovens has increased and the market is expected to grow in the coming years, according to a recent study by Straits Research. Designers use non-woven as a creative and versatile material. The fashion industry in particular is exploring the use of non-woven fabrics. An example of this is Fabrican's spray-on dress in Coperni's SS23 runway show.
Nonwovens are less labour-intensive and fewer steps mean less energy consumption, contributing to an average 75 per cent reduction in carbon footprint compared to traditional knitted alternatives such as fleece. The disadvantages in terms of mechanical properties, such as drape, flexibility and durability are the biggest obstacles.
Nike recently launched 'Nike Foward', a non-woven fabric made from recycled plastic flakes. The material is manufactured using needle-punching machines, typically found in the automotive and medical industries. In the future, more use will be made of unconventional machines in the exploration of non-woven materials.
Non-woven
7/ Local manufacturing
A production chain fit for the future
Brands are exploring local production due to de-globalisation, sustainability and to meet consumer demand faster. Using locally available materials, such as natural fibres or bio-based materials, is essential to bring sustainable production closer to the end consumer.
Creating a self susufficient circle of production and energy supply through micro factories creates a decentralized web of smaller entities that are connected to local conditions and needs. Participating in local production will lead to greater flexibility and resilience throughout the supply chain. The micro-factory concept provides direct-to-garment technology, reducing time and waste and eliminating the need for large stock.
The challenge is to source local sustainable materials suitable for robot technology and automated production. Future supply chains will need to be much more dynamic and be able to predict, prepare, and respond to rapidly evolving demand and a continually changing product and channel mix. This means also material production will need to become agile and hyper-personalized.
8/ Craft in the digital age
Hybrid craft
The merging of the physical and digital worlds creates new aesthetic possibilities in texture, form and tactility. Digital fabrication tools allow the imagination to run wild in creating an otherworldly material expression. This digital craft of bold textures, unusual combinations and luminous surfaces influences physical materials.
Creating systems of hybrid crafts, where craft knowledge is supported by technological aid, reinforces originality and translates into new material experiences. The integration of craft and AI will become the most demanding future technology. The combination enhances new cultural forms of crafts and also fosters the enhancement of innovative creative methods and thinking.
Just as designers are working with Ai to create and design, craftspeople collaborate with robots and machines to create new expressions. Traditional craft model-based product design models can be transcended by the power of intelligent technology. Custom-designed crafts can be better suited to individual needs, robots enable small-scale series production of certain products.
9/ Bacteria based
Rethinking the fabrication process
The field of biofabrication is developing, and bacteria-based materials are being explored from different manufacturing methods. Commercialization of these technologies is slowly approaching. It took decades since nylon was developed in the 1930s until it became as ubiquitous as it is today. Developing new materials takes time, dedication and funding.
Synthetic Biology enables the development of novel and sustainable products for textile production, repairing, dyeing and PPE. Microbial weaving is one of the leading technologies in bacteria-based materials. British biotech company Modern Synthesis recently received $4 million in funding for their patent-pending microbial weaving process.
New Fashion Factory (NEFFA) produces customized products through liquid fermentation. Algae, mycelium or collagen are used as the bacterial base. The end product is built entirely in 3D, making further manufacturing unnecessary; each product is personalized.
10/ Smart textiles
Protective, supportive and self-charging
Technology and textiles are two areas that converge. Textiles come in many forms and are given new properties by technology. The market for protective, supportive and intelligent textiles is growing. Smart and Interactive Textiles Market size is set to reach USD 16,421.2 million by 2030.
The major driving factors for the growth of the smart textiles market include the implementation of advanced technologies in smart textiles, the miniaturization of electronic components and an expanding wearable industry. Sensing garments still use an embedded sensor, and the research for technologies that are in the yarn is continuing. Layering of materials with different properties is also a way to create functional textiles.
A research team at MIT has developed a fabric that adapts to the posture and movement of the wearer. The digitally knitted fabric uses sensors to collect data and predict future movement patterns.
The focus on self-charging textiles is also developing. Scientists at NTU Singapore have created a textile that converts body movements into electricity. The material consists of polymers that generate an electrical charge when bent, pressed or stretched.
11/ Solar powered
Harvesting energy
The current energy crisis offers the opportunity to accelerate the energy transition with solar energy as an essential renewable energy source. Embedding solar harvesting into materials and designs is a softer and more flexible way to integrate it into our everyday lives.
Designing with the sun can be done in different ways, in architecture by making sure that a structure is facing in the right direction, by heat or photovoltaic solar panels but also trough textiles or even solar paints.
Embedded solar cells bring power to fabrics. Existing solar panels are rigid, heavy blocks of PV cells made of silicon. Designer Marjan van Aubel shows that solar energy panels can be flexible, coloured and integrated into clothing or used to cover cars and building facades. Solar energy panels and objects can become something we like to surround ourselves with.
Haltian's "Sun-Powered Textiles Project" is working on an interdisciplinary scalable technology strategy to make energy harvesting more accessible. The co-innovation project is a collaboration between several Finnish universities.
Solar powered textiles
12/ Spacecraft materials
Achieving proficiency with lightweight
Space travel is no longer a distant reality. We are currently experiencing the beginning of what space habitation will look like in the future.
Space travelling while being energy efficient has led to an increased demand for lightweight materials. Reducing weight while preserving proficiency is crucial, this is applicable to the transportation sector at large.
Being aware of the changing climate and designing for performance optimisation is leading to new lightweight technology. Carbon nanotubes increase energy efficiency in materials, which scientists are currently exploring.
W.L. Gore’s newly ePE membrane is an extremely lightweight material made from polyethene and polyurethane. The fabric features membranes that provide a high strength-to-weight ratio, making it a light, durable and breathable material.
13/ Digital Fabric sampling
Using technology to bridge the gap
Brands are identifying how their business models are preventing the issue of textile waste. The lack of communication within a supply chain can course more waste, especially during the prototyping phase. 3D fabric scanning technology is optimising manufacturing, designed to be cost and time efficient.
The metaverse is also emphasising the need for brands to embrace virtual and augmented reality, in their business. How do materials behave in the digital? What qualities should they have? Materials can have unlimited qualities in the digital space. Fluidity like water, light inserts like thunder, anything is possible.
The practical issue of product returns is an important driver behind better digital textile representation. Digitised fabrics and 3D simulations enable consumers to better grasp the quality of fabrics. The metaverse is also emphasising the need for brands to embrace virtual and augmented reality, in their business.
Bandicoot is a leading fabric digitisation solution, that offers accessible 3D technology for suppliers and brands. The scaleable technology bridges the gap between suppliers and designers, increasing productivity and minimising waste.
Digital fabric sampling
14/ New ways of making
The need to enhance resilience
Wellbeing is an important driver behind textile innovations. There is a growing need rethink our health care managing systems; people need to be more interactive and more conscious of their own health condition and to obtain personalized information.
The interconnectedness between material experiences and technology is putting a focus on materials that cater to both emotional and physical needs. This is fostered by the use of smart applications, such as micro-sensors, that provide insights and enhance the wearer’s health and wellbeing.
Unique surface details, such as gentle relief or soft compression, will increase our sense of wellbeing. Connected textiles can sense and react to the human body and to the world around them to react and connect in a soft, intuitive way.
15/ Materials and the senses
A way to seek comfort
Good design is currently not only centred in aesthetic appearance but also in how we emotionally relate to them. Materials can be used as mediums for self-care and bodily awareness.
Comfort performance as in the movements of heat, moisture and air through a fabric are the main factors governing comfort in textiles we wear close to the body but also haptic properties; how a material feels, looks maybe even sounds or smells is important.
Tactile, natural and porous materials invite us to touch the surfaces. Soft velvety surfaces that are padded, voluminous and cushy feel like abstract cuddly toys. Playful and creative shapes that invite us to interact with them in new ways. When volume is added to a material and it becomes 3D, it makes us relate to it differently and see it almost as a living entity.
3D knitting and weaving are interesting to explore for their functionality and sustainability aspects but also for the fantasy and imaginative aspects. Breaking free of 2D creates a new world of possibilities to explore and textures to construct. Like in the digital world design can be limitless and garments can be an interface for interaction.
You can download the PDF here