Today, many of us are busy with future-proofing our businesses and our lives against the current challenges of the Covid-19 pandemic. We first need to focus on the present, but it is fundamental to think about what is going to happen after this period and to spend time thinking about the future. It is both a time for action in the present and a reflection on the future.

Before Covid-19, companies worldwide were focusing on sustainability; now, priorities have shifted to shorter-term needs, such as safeguarding people and maintaining business practises. The pandemic and the climate crisis are linked, the pandemic has made it clear how interconnected these global issues are; it made us step back and ask ourselves many questions about our societies. We can now also imagine how climate change can change our lives. Planetary health needs our attention and how to balance this with human health and economic health.

With just ten years ahead to cut emissions, we have entered the “decade of action”. The sense of urgency makes it clear that now is the time for significant acceleration towards systems transformation and value redefinition. We need to build resilience into our systems and define growth in a way that it includes all capital, also natural capital.

Build back better after the pandemic

There is an opportunity to build back better after the pandemic, we have experienced cleaner air because of less traffic pollution, and we have deepened the connection to nature and our close surroundings. The current situation can inspire ideas and innovation, and transformation can be quick and impactful. The pandemic can be the beginning of the process of rebuilding our society.

2020 might turn out to be a game-changer; there is no other choice. The year 2021 should be the time for the industry to dive into the unknown, without reservation, to charter into entirely new territories across several segments of the industry. That means looking at better practices, listen to the people that make your products and define new company values related to improving the state of the planet.

The development of sustainable materials and techniques goes slow. The industry is waiting for quality alternatives that work and are scaleable. The most significant impact for sustainability is in upstream production, at the beginning of the supply chain. Energy consumption is the first subject, and after that, materials can make a significant impact. Following you can read about the next steps in sustainability which involves the issue of waste, consumption patterns, information and knowledge, healthier environments and plant-based dyes and materials. 

In the turn, from a linear to a circular economy, we find ourselves in the stage of analysing and finding solutions for the problem of waste. Plastic waste, electronic waste, food and clothing are often thrown away with little to no recycling or repurposing. Reuse and recycling are critical to the worlds waste problem and to foster a more circular economy.  

Tackling the problem of waste is a continuous process of improving practises and wanting to do better. That means asking yourself, every day, how to improve. Small daily actions can shape the future of our planet. By uncovering how we can be better to ourselves and the Earth, we are one step closer to a healthier and waste-free world. Waste reduction, along with the choice of materials, can have a significant impact. 

The use of information can help to reduce the waste of never used products. Made-to-order products and a faster and more responsive supply chain can reduce overproduction. Big data analysis and artificial intelligence can help by creating an efficient masterplan. 

Recycling can be seen as the next step towards more sustainable materials. Closed-loop systems are essential for the sustainable industry. It isn't easy to recycle materials and keep the quality at the same level. Separating waste is often difficult or even impossible; the choice of materials at the start is essential.

Companies are exploring new business models such as renting, repairing, take-back programs and second-hand offerings. These are new revenue streams that are circular in themselves and can change the core of an existing business, as small loops on a large linear business model.

Refilling initiatives for longer use

Refilling initiatives for beauty and cleaning products can reduce plastic overconsumption, and micro and nano-plastic particles. The packaging can be purchased once and reused endlessly with refills. Subscription services make life easy. Focusing on how to make products last longer is valid for many of our products.

Mono-materials

Recycling is hard. Mono-materials are materials that consist of one material or fibre, instead of a blend. It is easier to recycle a garment made out of one single material, as opposed to separating several materials and then recycle them separately. 

Nothing new

Brands and designers have started to create with leftover materials. These limited editions are launched in drops without any follow-ups. The storytelling part becomes part of the product, to know the history of what is was before. 

Left to right,

ReStyle 2020 Collection by Hyundai, upcycling discarded materials from automotive manufacturing and scrapping into fashionable products

The Swapshop, Rotterdam

Renew concept by Morrama, upgrading phones rather than replace them

Water reduced dyeing by Spindye

Looop Garment-To-Garment Recycling System, Stockholm by H&M

My name is Luca, e-car concept made from recycled waste by TU Delft

Consumption patterns are the root pillar of today’s problems; changing deep-rooted mindsets is never easy. People will not just decide to stop consuming, the appeal of cheap products is strong, as is the search for the new. But change is beginning to emerge; people are re-evaluating what they need. 

The next generation is a generation that understands the colossal impact of their carbon footprints such as the 11 million garments that end up in landfill each week and they are open for change, as seen in the popularity of wearing second-hand clothes.

Almost everyone during lockdown was forced to stop consuming, and people rediscovered how to do with less. Cleaning up and reducing possessions can feel liberating. Now every new purchase is questioned, the focus is on essentials, ranges will be reduced and personalised with micro offerings, tailored to specific needs. The definition of quality is changing; now, it means good quality plus being a sustainable product. Fundamental values are simplicity, support and delight.

Without reducing consumption, no amount of sustainable initiatives will be enough; we need to change our throwaway mentality into building a relationship with our products. Start living with less is a paradigm shift. People should no longer see themselves as consumers, but identify themselves as creators, as curators and as guardians of resources. Information about products we use daily and how they are made should be communicated clearly to make more sustainable choices. 

Micro offerings

Instead of products being made in large quantities, they will be made in smaller amounts tailored to specific needs. Ranges will be reduced and personalised with micro offerings. This will prevent waste and offer more flexibility.

The new local

It makes sense to establish a self-sufficient local economy, catering to the needs of the community. Products will be made close with local solutions, and by smaller manufacturers, this will save on transport and create a connection between people and suppliers.

The customer is ready

The pandemic has helped to speed up global consumer attitudes to environmental issues. Before Covid-19 people already wanted to know more about what they buy, and now they also focus on health and safety and support the businesses in their local communities. All the techniques for the circular economy have been present for years; people are now ready for the transition. It is nothing new, the momentum is there, the customer is ready.

Left to right,

Tiny greenhouse in London by Studio Weaves

Vejibags, organic cotton bags for keeping vegetables fresh longer

Peterborough Regional Farmers’ Market, photo by The Network

17.6-square-metre flat by A Little Design

ZEROe concept aircraft by Airbus 

Consumer sentiment on sustainability in fashion, survey by McKinsey

There is a significant need for a common language, a standard of measuring and using data and setting targets, based on science to report on the status of the progress made. A consistent reporting frame can provide clarity. 

By labelling every product, consumers can make more informed choices and gain knowledge about the footprint of a product. When data is consistently presented, consumers recognise and trust the information. They can see the emission, energy use and water usage of the factory and the material. 

Suppliers were already working on 3D visualisations; Covid-19 has sped this up. The number of samples a factory makes creates a lot of waste. 3D visualisations and digital processes can partially solve that. Made-to-order products and a faster and more responsive supply chain can reduce overproduction.

Blockchain technology has the potential to revolutionise supply chain management and sustainability performance as it can improve efficiency, transparency and traceability. Blockchain gives people security because a product cannot just disappear. Transparency matters in the manufacturing process from start to finish, information where the products come from, how they are made, the conditions in which they are being made, and the supply chains involved. Transparency will help consumers learn about the making process of a product and hopefully help shine a light on the importance of ethical manufacturing.

Higg Index

Many textile companies use the Higg Index, a tool that enables brands, retailers, and facilities to measure and score a company or product’s sustainability performance. The Higg portal is also a place to make decisions about materials.

Digital identity

Labels become the digital identity of a product. Circular identities allow brands to exchange and access data throughout the life cycle of a product. The product remains visible and connected after the point of sale.

The real costs

A full price breakdown of a product should cover the cost of the raw material, material production, labour, and mark-up. The price, origin and impact should be calculated to get a real understanding of what goes into the making of a product. 

Left to right,

The impact receipt by Asket

The 20-Minute Neighbourhood plan by the City of Melbourne

An intelligent, unique urban vision for the city by Benoy for Alibaba’s central China Headquarters

Freshippo mobile app to track the farm-to-shelf journey for food

EON circular ID generates a digital identity for garments

Urbanisation is continuing at a rapid pace, and this means the removal of nature. Contact with nature is beneficial for human health. Bring back nature and natural elements in cities to contributes to a positive, healthy environment for people. Reducing traffic and creating car-free towns is a priority for air quality and noise reduction.

Natural materials can help to create a healthier living environment. Fibres extracted from plants have potential as functional and aesthetic materials and are known as sustainable raw materials. 

These natural fibres are renewable, cheap, fully or partially recyclable, biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Fibres like bamboo and sisal, water hyacinth and kapok will play an increasingly important role towards a more sustainable future.

Many textiles contain harmful chemicals that can cause different disorders and diseases. The skin has an absorbing property, and therefore the chemicals can enter our bodies. Fabrics can also release substances that can be beneficial for our health and skin.

As vegan lifestyles are expanding, we move away from animal-derived materials. Plant-based leather made from, for instance, cactus, grapes and apple skin are examples of animal-free materials. Cork is also a vegan material, a recyclable, biodegradable, and versatile material. 

Carbon negative materials

Carbon negative materials can remove pollution that is already there through carbon pollution-absorbing surfaces that absorb more carbon dioxide than they emit. By replacing existing CO2-producing materials, the ecological footprint of, for instance, a building can be reversed. The materials can contribute to the well-being of the citizen by drastically reducing the impact of air.

Natural dyes

Natural dyes, for example, dyestuff from food-waste, tea, plants, flowers, herbs and spices are starting to scale up, along with waterless synthetic dyeing processes, even in fluorescent colours. The popularity of natural dyes and undyed fabrics are bringing about new irregular aesthetics and colour palettes with beautiful neutral shades. 

Air quality and daylight

Nature and "natural elements" such as daylight, fresh air and tranquility play an essential role in the design of healthier environments. These elements have a positive influence on human health and well-being.

Left to right,

BioLight collection by QWSTION, the shell fabric is made from 100 % natural and biodegradable fibres

What does colour mean by Giulia Pompilj 

Trees on frosted glass in Tokyo by Takenosuke Sakakura

Eggshell Ceramic by Atelier LvdW

Phytophilia exhibition exploring the potential of plant fibres by Sara Martinsen

Eucalyptus Sheets by Buffy

Biomass is a rich source of renewable materials mainly made from atmospheric CO2 and water. These materials were widely used in the pre-industrial revolution period, then these were replaced by synthetics for a ling time, and now these materials are increasingly becoming important again. Biomass is a renewable resource and plays an essential role in the shift towards more sustainable development, greener production and consumption. 

Materials derived from biomass are seen as the solution to environmental problems. Even if greenhouse gas emissions become manageable, the current CO2 concentration in the atmosphere is too high. Growing plants is an effective way to capture atmospheric carbon while producing food, energy and industrial raw materials.

The most common material from a renewable resource is wood. Wood is widely used to make cellulose for cardboard, paper and pulp. Other examples of biomass are the sources of cellulose, such as sugar cane and bamboo and other grasses that produce straw. Natural rubber is yet another widespread biomass material.

Algae are a promising, sustainable source of biomass and oils for fuel, food, feed and other products. Algae are available on a large scale and in great variety. These plants have evolved over billions of years to produce and store energy in the form of oil, and they do this very efficiently. There are other materials in abundance in nature that have not yet found beneficial uses but have potential.

Plant-based bioplastic

For plastic, a switch must be made to plastic that is 100 per cent biodegradable. Bioplastic refers to plastic made from plant or other biological material instead of petroleum. Bioplastics can either be made by extracting sugar from plants like corn and sugarcane to convert into PLA or be made from PHA, engineered from microorganisms. PLA is the most common type of bioplastic but can only biodegrade under special conditions, PHA is naturally biodegradable.

Biodegradable materials

Biodegradable materials can dissolve entirely or partially when they come into contact with a living organism, and the living tissue replaces them. Scientists around the world agree that for a product or material to be certified as biodegradable, it must be at least 70% biodegradable, in terms of material composition. For zero waste, the afterlife of material must be taken into account and the things we add to the soil.

Wood based materials

In a circular economy, materials are not only reused or recycled. Materials are stored in products and then used again and again. New plant-based materials can be designed and developed for these closed systems. Wood and cellulose-based materials are bio based materials that can reduce CO2 emissions, have a long life cycle and are recyclable. These new functional materials have properties that can replace some plastics.

Left to right,

Challenges for the biomass sector by Innergy global

Projectkin suitcase based on biomaterials and bioplastics

The Department of Seaweed Installation by Julia Lohmann

The Chemarts Cookbook gives ideas and recipes for hands-on experiments with wood-based materials

Woodland off-grid home by Piers Taylor has a biomass boiler fed from waste timber from the surrounding woodland for heating and hot water.

Treekind, vegan leather from leaf waste

Image by Green Dot bioplastic

Top banner image, Amsterdam Allegories by Studio Ossidiana

Article banner image, Intimate Quarantine portraits by Stuart Miller

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