Fall/Winter Analysis
The Fall/Winter shows explored our connection with nature and history. The influence of reusing materials was translated into new material techniques and creative patchworks. The used materials, patterns and colours create a story of heritage and history in a contemporary context. The world has changed, new social values and respect for nature drive design and creativity.
Distorted Nature
An organic version of nature, its textures, colours and the effects of rain, sun and wind on materials and colours. Shapes are fluid and draped, through cutting techniques, pleating and gathering. Patterns reflect water, wood or abstract motion in colour. The shapes are fluid, soft and comfortable. The materials are smooth and fluid or irregularly textured. Knitted surfaces are loose and irregular, the yarns are hairy and irregular. Fur and pile fabric are dyed in multiple colours that accentuate the depth.
Top row, Giorgio Armani, Batsheva, Sportmax, For Restless Sleepers, Issey Miyake
Bottom row, Petar Petrov, Collina Strada, Sportmax, Sportmax, Issey Miyake
Social Design
A respectful and supportive way of working with craftspeople, makers and producers. The art of making and thinking about the whole cycle, the materials, the art, the people. The patterns breath creativity and are expressive in a new language. Woven textiles are hand-painted, stamped, decorated or used in patchworks. Shapes are oversized and layered, ponchos and big coats are worn over loose-fitting pants and dresses.
Top row, Stella Jean, Orange Culture Nigeria, Two Point Two, NorBlack NorWhite, Stella Jean
Bottom row, CFL Aquarelle Laguna, Stella Jean, Bode, Ji Won Choi, Underage
Re-use
Scrap materials are repurposed and combined, using different textures, patterns and techniques. Fabrics and garments are sewn together in unusual and unexpected ways through patchwork and quilting techniques. Textiles are decorated with embroideries, threads and stitching. Garments are taken apart and re-sown in asymmetrical shapes and contrasting colours and materials.
Top row, Chloé, Sea, Molly Godard, Chopova Lowena, Meryll Rogge
Bottom row, Paolina Russo, A.W.A.K.E. Mode, Colville, Chloé, Coach
Nostalgia
Historical patterns are woven in jacquards or printed on shiny fabrics. Gloves and stockings are included to complete the look. Lace collars and sleeves are added to layered dresses. By adding unexpected materials like leather or contemporary styling in jackets, the references are mixed up, and this is what makes it resonate today.
Top row, Shrimps, Cecilie Bahnsen, Toga, Yuhan Wang, Sindiso Khumalo
Bottom row, Luisa Beccaria, Yuhan Wang, Erdem, Simone Rocha, Shushutong Studio
Classics Reinterpreted
Classic textiles like tweeds, boucle’s and Houndstooth are updated in new combinations and designs. Playing with rhinestone buttons, frilly collars and elements of classic dressing like it could have existed in the ’60s and ’70s.
Top row, Alessandra Rich, Upcycled by Miu Miu, Arthur Arbesser, Nina Ricci, Self-Portrait
Bottom row, UOOYAA, Nihao Sacai, Mukzin, Dolce & Gabbana, Alessandra Rich
Softness
Soft, comfortable materials are used for loose-fitting clothes that move with the body. Drawstrings and gatherings are used to create volume and shape. Materials are washed and softened. Lightweight knits and loose layers make it easy to move and feel good.
Top row, Apiece Apart, Issey Miyake, Selasi, D-vec, Jil Sander
Bottom row, Auralee, Marine Serre, Dries van Noten, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Common Hours
Womanhood
Soft suits are simple and relaxed. The jackets are loose fitting and can be shaped with drawstrings. Underneath satin blouses or lace tops are worn. The materials are comfortable and lasting, the suit as an investment piece.
Top row, Dries van Noten, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi , Eckhaus Latta, Kiton, Kwaidan Editions
Bottom row, Issey Miyake, Ellery, Sea, Dries van Noten, Peter Do
Party
Satin, lace, velvet and gold lamé is used for suits, jackets and blouses. The sleeves and bows are big and can be a-symetical. Corset references and disco-tops are worn under suits. Dresses are full of gold, glitter and sequins, it is time to shine.
Top row, Acne Studios, Face Lace, Patou, Photo by Gabriele Rosati, Mukzin
Bottom row, Dries van Noten, Tom Ford, Harris Reed, Vaquera, MSGM
Digitized
The materials are super smooth and shiny or exaggerated 3D expressions. They look as if they are rendered surfaces. Patterns are glitches and blurs of colour that are moving and seem fluid. Coats are big and voluminous, bodysuits, tops, and pants underneath are tight or also loose and exaggerated in volume.
Top row, Sunnei, Jonathan Anderson, Dingyun Zhang, Dior X Kenny Scharf, Dolce & Gabbana
Bottom row, Louis Vuitton, Marni, Paolina Russo, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada