Womenswear SS 2025
Facets of self
Fashion reflects the rich diversity of women and their multifaceted lives. A woman’s wardrobe is a mix of moods, allowing her to navigate the various worlds she encounters. Diversity is liberating, empowering individuals to express themselves authentically and unapologetically. Fashion is a powerful means of communication, allowing women to convey their dreams, personalities, values, and aspirations. A bold statement piece, a subtle nod to a subculture, or a homage to one’s cultural heritage, clothes speak volumes without using a single word. Freedom and self-discovery are encouraged to celebrate their diverse selves.
“To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.”
E.E. Cummings
To illustrate this message, OvN has combined the inspiration of the fashion shows with images of women. The eight portraits emphasize different aspects of womanhood and identity. In the age of personal expression, fashion’s role continues to evolve, embracing the broad spectrum of identities. This requires brands to be more creative and outspoken, empathise with people, and combine dreams, roles and functions in high-quality, lasting clothes.
Right, Pensive II painting by Mit Senoj
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Simplification
Archetypes are recreated to redefine traditional clothing that has proven itself over the years. Classic outerwear has transcended its utilitarian purpose and been transformed into statement pieces, blurring the lines between functional clothing and fashion. A cover to wear in the outside world that is not a dress or pants but has a new shape. This evolution exemplifies design simplification; complicated ideas are distilled into effortlessly elegant, easy-to-understand forms, reshaping our perception of everyday clothing.
Left to right, Eight minutes and ten seconds painting by Bertram Hasenauer, JW Anderson, JW Anderson, Sacai, Jil Sander, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Burberry
Fluidity
Flexibility and softly flowing outfits give women strength through the combination of material, colour, form and function. The soft colours accentuate the draping movement of the fabrics. Fine textures that combine high-quality materials with subtle matte and glossy contrasts create a delicate visual and tactile experience. It is a celebration of feminine strength, which gracefully asserts itself through the power of softness and the use of colour.
Left to right, Zegna, Stella McCartney, Quira, Lauren Manoogian, Gucci, Tory Burch, New Hope painting by Paulina Archambault
Decadence
Renaissance-inspired clothing lets go of its grandeur for a contemporary twist. Modern silhouettes implement the elaborate ruffles and ornate embroidery of the past. Corsets, balloon skirts and bloomers have been reimagined, making them whimsical yet elevated and chic. Romance is powerful; it can elegantly expand our thinking and history can be rewritten and reinterpreted for a new world.
Left to right, Before the Ball by Jesse Mockrin, Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs, Antonio Marras, Charles de Vilmorin, Jil Sander, Cecilie Bahnsen
Sartorial evolution
Sampling and collage experiments fuse historical elements, creating a tapestry of references. By interweaving male suiting and shirt references across various historical eras, garments are infused with a narrative of sartorial evolution. The cutting of sleeves, mixing textiles and playing with oversized bows redefine traditional paradigms and power dressing.
Left to right, Études, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, MM6 Maison Margiela, Ashlyn, Alexandre Vauthier, The Sessions No.43 Collage by Bettina von Zwehl
Blue space
Denim is a versatile canvas, an infinite blue space that can be reworked and always remains relevant. It grants wearers the freedom to express their unique identities and embrace the freedom to be whoever they choose to be. Denim is moving away from being a classic archetype. Designers have harnessed denim’s versatility, crafting pieces that effortlessly blur the lines between feminine and masculine aesthetics, craft and hardwearing function.
Left to right, Captain Obvious painting by Seline Burn, Sunnei, Stella McCartney, Dion Lee, A.W.A.K.E., Valentino, Sacai
Knitted expressions
Knitwear offers a unique combination of softness and adaptability, seamlessly conforming to the body’s contours while providing a tactile and textured feeling. The tactility of the knitted pieces functions as a second skin in specific colour use. Knitting reduces material waste to a minimum, and the innovation of 3D knitting techniques offers endless possibilities for creating novel forms and functions.
Left to right, JW Anderson, JW Anderson, JW Anderson, A.W.A.K.E., MSGM, PH5, The Sea Between Us painting by María Berrío
Heritage perspectives
Looking at the diaspora and recognizing the long shadow of the history of the clothes we wear leads to powerful new mixes of cultural expressions. Textiles and clothing are a means that people have traditionally used to tell powerful stories. Memories and references are fragmented and reused, and combining different materials reframes old beliefs and creates new perspectives. Images and combinations of textiles and techniques can transcend racial, religious and language differences and give space to people and events from the past in a current context.
Left to right, Particularidades de una tierra prometida by Giana De Dier, Our Legacy, Feng Chen Wang, Our Legacy, Ottolinger, Sunnei, Masha Popova
Life forms
In the future autonomous era, design evolves into a sensory narrative, where aesthetics and functionality seamlessly converge, ushering in a new dimension of human interaction. Our senses are captivated in novel ways; we communicate and navigate not just through words but through the language of shape, colour, and light.
Left to right, Feben, Rick Owens, YProject, PH5, Mowalola, Standing Ground at Fashion East, Meditative State I by Francisco Tavoni